Sew the Perfect Blackwood Pocket Using Wonder Tape

Sew the Perfect Blackwood Pocket Using Wonder Tape

Posted by Chloe | February 11, 2019 | Blackwood Cardigan, Sewing Tutorials
Blackwood Cardigan perfect pocket using Wonder Tape

Sewing patch pockets can be a little bit intimidating, especially if you’re working with a knit fabric. You want your edges to be as clean and even as possible, which can be a little tricky, and you have to make sure that your pocket stays put once you’ve placed it. It can feel like you’re facing several challenges all at once.

Wonder Tape

Enter Wonder Tape- the answer to all your patch pocket problems. Wonder Tape is a 0.25” wide, double-sided transparent tape that functions as an alternative to pinning or basting. Wonder Tape allows you to press seams cleanly and easily, and adheres your pocket and garment together prior to sewing. Wonder Tape washes out the first time you launder your garment, leaving no residue. In this tutorial, we’ll be using Wonder Tape to sew the perfect Blackwood Cardigan pocket.

Blackwood Cardigan perfect pocket using Wonder Tape

Once you’ve cut out all your pattern pieces, take a pocket top and fold it in half, with wrong sides facing and matching notches.

Blackwood Cardigan perfect pocket using Wonder Tape
Blackwood Cardigan perfect pocket using Wonder Tape

Sew the pocket top to the pocket bottom. Serge the seam if desired.

Blackwood Cardigan perfect pocket using Wonder Tape
Blackwood Cardigan perfect pocket using Wonder Tape

Press the seam towards the pocket bottom, then edgestitch the seam to the pocket using a small zig-zag stitch, 1/8” (0.3 cm) from the edge.

Blackwood Cardigan perfect pocket using Wonder Tape

You might notice that when sewing this seam, you may get ‘wings’ on either end. This is because the fabric stretches as you sew. Simply trim these little ‘wings’ off to get a straight edge.

Blackwood Cardigan perfect pocket using Wonder Tape

Now comes the fun part- using Wonder Tape!

Blackwood Cardigan perfect pocket using Wonder Tape
Blackwood Cardigan perfect pocket using Wonder Tape

On the wrong side of the fabric, place a strip of Wonder Tape on the bottom edge of the pocket, right up against the edge of the fabric. Gently peel off the paper backing, leaving behind the sticky tape.

Blackwood Cardigan perfect pocket using Wonder Tape

Fold up 3/8″ (1 cm) and press.

Blackwood Cardigan perfect pocket using Wonder Tape
Blackwood Cardigan perfect pocket using Wonder Tape
Blackwood Cardigan perfect pocket using Wonder Tape
Blackwood Cardigan perfect pocket using Wonder Tape

Repeat this process with the side edges of the pocket.

Blackwood Cardigan perfect pocket using Wonder Tape

Next, take your cardigan front and line up the pocket with the pocket markings. We used a Clover Chaco liner. Mark on the right side of your cardigan front where you will be placing your pocket.

Blackwood Cardigan perfect pocket using Wonder Tape

Place a strip of Wonder Tape on the side edges and bottom edge of the pocket placement. Gently peel off the paper backing.

Blackwood Cardigan perfect pocket using Wonder Tape

Next place the pocket on top of the Wonder Tape. Press to secure. Don’t worry if it looks a little wonky the first time- you can easily peel the pocket off and try again.

Blackwood Cardigan perfect pocket using Wonder Tape

Your pocket will now be securely fastened to the cardigan front. Topstitch around the sides and bottom of the pocket, 1/8″ (0.3 cm) from the pocket edge, backstitching at the top corners. You may notice that the Wonder Tape also helps to stabilize your seams while sewing- another benefit.

Blackwood Cardigan perfect pocket using Wonder Tape

Here’s our finished pocket- perfectly placed, with nice clean edges. No stress and no over-zealous pinning required.

If you take a close look at the topstitching here, you might notice that the stitches are a little closer together in areas where we sewed over the seam connecting the pocket top to the pocket bottom. This can happen when sewing over existing seams with knits- unless you’re using contrasting thread, it will hardly be noticeable. However, there are some ways to prevent this. Stitching slowly over existing seams definitely helps. Another great solution is a walking foot. A walking foot has a built-in fabric feeding system that moves and holds fabric between your sewing machine’s upper and lower feed dogs, which helps to control layers of fabric and prevents fabric shifting. This makes it perfect for sewing with knits, sewing multiple layers of fabric, sewing over seams, and pattern matching for stripes and plaids. I actually use one as my primary foot with my own machine at home.

Let us know in the comments section if you have any questions, or if you have any favourite uses for Wonder Tape.

Blackwood Cardigan

About The Author

Chloe

Hi, I'm Chloe, the Creative Assistant at Helen's Closet! I'm a Vancouver transplant from San Francisco. I love sewing, the outdoors, and RuPaul's Drag Race.

Blog Comments

I use Wonder tape or similar tape a lot, for pocket placement, hems, zippers. Very useful stuff.

Oh, using Wonder Tape for zippers is a great idea!

Thank you for this great reminder Helen! I’m just working on my second Wiksten Kimono – having just finished one for my husband who was only too happy to be the recipient planned for the practice run 🙂 I know you’ve made the Wiksten and even though it’s in woven, securing that pocket placement while topstitching is also critical. I keep forgetting about wonder tape! I have some but I’ve been using glue basting to nail down the bottom edge. I’m working with a type of boucle as the main fabric and a Cotton & Steel Cotton Lawn that I bought from a little fabric shop in Nanaimo. So the main fabric is a bit of a skidding around sort of fabric but the lining is a cinch with this wonderful crisp lawn. Even so for these types of patch type pockets (different lining for example) nothing works as well as wonder tape. I get into a roll with habits as I’m sure many other sewists do too but not all methodologies work with all fabrics and challenges so this one was a dandy at just the right time. I was just about to attach my Wiksten pockets this morning….synchronicity in sewing 🙂 Have a wonderful day Helen.

Hi Kathleen- it’s so true that we get into habits as sewists! Good luck with your Wiksten pockets and happy sewing.

So funny, I totally used wonder tape to hold down the edges of my pockets, but didn’t think about then using it to hold the pocket to the cardigan. So smart, thank you!

Also, I see Chloë! Hi Chloë!

Hi Heather! Yes, using Wonder Tape to hold the pocket to the cardigan is a total game changer. Thank you Wonder Tape!

Nice post, Chloe! I haven’t tried wonder tape for pocket placement yet. I could see this being useful for wovens as well (think, Archer button-up). I believe I’ve used stitch witchery in the past for pockets but it because a gooey mess if some of it inadvertently hits the iron. After using wonder tape for a knit hem recently, I’ve become a huge fan and will have to try it on my next pocket!

Great demo! I will use this idea and product.

Thank you!

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