We are back to finish the cuffs today! I will be walking you through the hidden seam method and tomorrow we will look at the exposed seam method. Either works and it really is a personal preference. You can view all the posts in the Suki Sewalong here.
Get the Suki Kimono Pattern
Let’s get started! Fold one cuff with right sides facing.
Pin and sew along the short edge of the cuff.
Press the seam open.
Fold the cuff lengthwise with wrong sides facing and press.
Unfold the cuff.
Fold one edge of the cuff in 3/8″ and press.
Repeat the above steps for the other cuff. You should have two matching cuffs now.
Position the cuff on the sleeve with right sides facing. The unfolded edge of the cuff should be aligned with the raw edge of the sleeve.
Match up the cuff seam with the sleeve seam.
Pin and sew the cuff to the sleeve.
Grade the cuff seam allowance down to 1/4″. this helps to reduce bulk in this seam.
Press the cuff and seam away from the kimono sleeve.
Using the fold you already made in your cuff, fold it over with wrong sides facing. The folded edge should just overlap the seam.
On the right side of your kimono, pin the folded cuff in place. You want the folded edge of the cuff on the inside to overlap the seam by 1/8″.
Use plenty of pins and be as precise as possible.
On the right side of the kimono, stitch in the ditch of the seam, catching the folded edge of the cuff underneath. This can be tricky, so go slowly and check regularly that the folded edge of the cuff is getting caught in your stitches.
Question: Can I hand sew instead? Of course! Hand sewing the cuff closed is the cleanest finish possible. It also offers you more control and may be less difficult to execute. It will take longer, but it is a great option for a really nice finish.
A stitch in the ditch should be barely visible, hiding in the ‘ditch’ of the original seam.
When you are finished, you should be able to see your stitch in the ditch if you pull apart the seam on the outside of the kimono.
On the inside of the kimono, you will see a stitch line about 1/8″ from the edge of the cuff and all the seams will be tucked inside.
I hope you like this method for enclosed seams! If you prefer a faster way, we will be covering a serged edge tomorrow. If you prefer to hand sew your cuff closed, you can do that too! I love a nice, hand sewn finish as well.
Let me know if you have any questions in the comments or via email at firstname.lastname@example.org.
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